~~NOTRANS~~
~~NOTOC~~
====== 1965 July Issue ======

{{Takami-Phantom-08.jpg}}

===== Headline =====
Topcoat (Finish Coats)
The stretch from undercoat to finish coats is utterly monotonous; at times it makes me feel silly for building solid models at all. When that happens, I take a break and come back with patience.\\
As for the finish, the real F-4B appears to be painted in an almost matte white and “Gull Gray.” If you are a strict realist and want a dead-flat look, use spray equipment. In my case, I brush-paint the airframe a little on the heavy side to yield gloss, then, after drying, wet-sand once more with about 600-grit paper and bring up the sheen with rubbing compound.\\
Make the radome and the anti-glare panel at the nose fully flat; the contrast sets off the model nicely.\\
After confirming the undercoat is thoroughly wet-sanded, apply about five coats of white lacquer to the undersides. Mixing in just a touch of blue before painting produces a better white and helps resist yellowing.\\
On areas to be painted Gull Gray this is unnecessary, but note that the flaps and the rudder surfaces are white on both sides; paint them now. The separately made horizontal tailplanes are also white on both sides; paint them together.\\
Once dry, wet-sand lightly with fine paper and a little soap to remove brush marks. Mask the flap upper surfaces and the rudder, then—studying photos—paint the nose demarcations. Proceed likewise for other Gull Gray areas.\\
I was fortunate to obtain actual paint for U.S. Navy “Gull Gray” from a friend at ShinMaywa; at least the paint itself is genuine. I also have Dark Seaplane Gray (as used on Neptunes, etc.) and the light green seen on Marine helicopters and observation aircraft; these dry completely flat. They thin with thinner but seem to be of a different type than the lacquer we can readily buy.\\
I am poor at expressing color “by the numbers,” so I will not say “X% black,” and the like. Please mix Gull Gray to your own satisfaction. The color pages in ''Kōkū Fan'' show examples—e.g., the Savage and Fury in the March 1965 issue look a bit too bluish. In reality, the tone seems achievable by tinting white with black. The Crusader in the French Navy feature (September 1964) is close in value.\\
If you can see the real thing, judge with your own eyes. If you live near the sea, watch the gulls overhead—their backs are Gull Gray!\\
After the gray dries, wet-sand as you did for white. Use compound after scribing. Leave the canopy tape in place a little longer.\\

===== Panel Lines and Rivets =====
In the past, many modelers scribed panel lines during the mock-up stage, but nowadays more do it after the finish coats. This avoids having surfacer fill the scribing and allows shallower lines that still look crisp, even if your hand is not perfect.\\
On my models, I scribe deeper (down to bare wood) only on movable surfaces such as flaps and rudders. I scribe very lightly on items like leading-edge flaps, inspection holes, and canopy frames—merely cutting the paint. For ordinary skin joints, a light knife line suffices.\\
Sharp tools help, of course; some modern blades are made so you can snap off the dull tip. Use what works best for you. In my experience, laying the blade down at a shallow angle helps keep it from wandering along the grain.\\
I also add rivets at this stage. Some plastic-model fans think solid models are inferior because they “lack rivets,” but that is a misunderstanding. On modern jets, most rivets are countersunk and should be flush with the surface. Those prominent “bumps” you see are often manufacturers’ tricks to make things look convincing.\\
On a solid model we indent rather than raise. Still, rivets should not be overemphasized; it is best if you only notice them when you look closely in hand. Do not draw big rectangular “boxy” rivets with a dressmaker’s roulette.\\
Nor is it efficient to punch every dot with a pin. I use a fine mimeograph roulette (for dotted lines), rolling it lightly. Without detailed skin-layout photos you will end up improvising; do not be too fussy.\\
When finished, polish the surface with compound or a wax/compound blend. Next, remove the canopy-masking tape; score lightly with a knife and peel. Clean up the edges once more with the blade.\\

===== Markings and Stencils =====
At this stage one longs to finish quickly, but resist the urge—markings and stencils are key to a crisp-looking solid model.\\
Study photographs carefully to place U.S. national insignia. You can freehand with ruling pen and compass, or mask with tape and cut with a knife; each method has advantages. I used the ruling-pen method, which has been described previously in ''Kōkū Fan''. Do not over-thin the lacquer—use it slightly thick and work quickly. If you overrun a line, scrape gently with a penknife or razor tip to correct.\\
My subject replicates a Marine F-4B shown at the Yokota open house last year (serial 151013). Some modelers invent numbers—birthday dates, car plates, and the like—but I prefer to model an aircraft that actually existed.\\
Do not just choose easy digits like 1, 4, or 7; check references or the serial-number sticklers will complain. Nose modexes differ by service (Navy: usually three digits; Marines: often one or two). Also note: tail “1013” does not imply that a nose “3” equals tail “1014,” and so on—be careful.\\
On U.S. Navy/Marine aircraft, the outlines of large digits and letters often have **rounded** outside corners, while **inside** corners are not rounded—observe this when painting.\\
For big letters and numerals (e.g., the “VW” on the tail, or “2” on the nose), I cut tape masks. Rarely does it go perfectly in one pass, so expect minor scraping or line-thickening corrections.\\
For smaller legends, I first define the bounding height with tape above and below, then paint with ruling pen or freehand. ''MARINES'' and ''VMFA-314'' I freehanded using hobby lacquer. For tiny lettering, I find using hobby paints (with a little retarder) kinder than over-thinned lacquer; if you err, wipe lightly with hobby thinner on a cloth and try again. So long as the top and bottom bounds are true, it will read well at normal viewing distance—avoid over-correcting and scarring the finish.\\
Recent U.S. aircraft are covered with stencils, and the F-4B’s nose is particularly busy. Using a fine brush and black hobby lacquer, dot in the cautions and placards, placing them by reference to photos. This adds more realism than clumsy “rivets.”\\
By the way, paint the radome flat black (some later aircraft use a gray-white tone), the anti-glare panel a near-black green, the leading edges of the main wing/intakes/tailplanes silver, and the aft fuselage around the exhausts silver toned with a little black. Inside the exhausts, a near-black works well—the settled sludge in your brush-wash jar can make a convincing shade.\\
Choose squadron insignia to taste. Atlantic-based F-4Bs can be quite flamboyant. In monochrome photos, judge colors by the value of the blue in the national insignia and the red bar. Colors here are not subtle mid-tones but mostly simple hues: blue, red, green, yellow—surprisingly straightforward.\\

{{Takami-Phantom-09.jpg}}
{{Takami-Phantom-10.jpg}}

===== Landing Gear =====
Now for my weakest area: landing gear. Many, like me, are not fond of soldering—attach one part and another pops off, and sooner or later you leap from a burn! At 1:50 scale, do not chase excessive detail; omitting very fine parts is often safer.\\
Use commercially available 12-mm U-control tailwheels for the main wheels and 8-mm for the nose wheel (two each). File the rounded tire beads flat so they sit properly. For struts, use brass rod or knitting needles; I used brass nails of various sizes—handy if you keep a stock from the hardware store.\\
When my solder builds up unevenly, I file down the excess. For non-load-bearing parts (e.g., oleo scissors), I use metal adhesive and hold with tape until cured. Gear doors are made by laminating two brass or tinplate sheets and are pinned to the fuselage with dress pins. On Navy aircraft, gear struts are generally painted white; paint the wells and door interiors white as well.\\

{{Takami-Phantom-11.jpg}}
{{Takami-Phantom-12.jpg}}\\
*Underside of the finished model. The landing-gear installation is clearly visible.*\\

===== Installing the Horizontal Tail =====
Carve the left and right horizontal tailplanes as one, finish the section, then separate them. The F-4B has a pronounced **anhedral**; cut the roots to match the angle.\\
Because of the anhedral, the planform appears slightly larger than the drawing—trim to size by checking against the plan. Pin with insect pins to set location, then mount them to the fuselage.\\
This yields an **all-flying tail**, as on the real jet. The gap between fuselage and tailplane is visible on the full-scale aircraft; modeling it this way eases construction and makes marking far simpler—very convenient. Beware: the tailplanes are thin; do not push the pins so deep that they break through.\\

===== Drop Tanks and Pylons =====
The F-4B carries many stores under the wings, and configurations vary. You may model clean pylons only; I chose two wing drop tanks. Some aircraft carry a centerline tank as well—choose what you like.\\
There are no tanks on the drawing I used, so I scaled them from photos. Mine are about 12 mm in diameter and roughly 115 mm long. I made the support fairings integral, then trimmed to fit the wing and fixed with pins. I formed the tank circumferential joints by applying thin strips of plastic sheet and over-painting; paint the tank tips silver.\\
Early pylons looked like those in the drawing; later ones are more complex. I carved mine from wood. The pitot-like probe on the fin is a fine dress pin.\\
At last, the F-4B is complete. Set it on the desk and study it. Are the tanks hanging too low? Are the wingtips at equal height? If not, correct with gear-leg length. Check the horizontal-tail anhedral, and touch up any solder-scuffed spots.\\
If everything is OK, clean off fingerprints with a glaze/wax (e.g., Unicon) and polish to a uniform sheen.\\

===== Conclusion =====
Thus my “Phantom II” is finished. It looks splendid in photographs, though the real model has its share of flaws. If I grade myself, perhaps 80 points.\\
This article is not a rigid textbook. If you decide to build one, you need not follow me step by step—use whatever methods you find most suitable. If my notes help even a little, I will be delighted.\\
What I most wished to say is this: if you are the kind of person who mutters about inaccuracies and “fixes” plastic kits, you are more than capable of building a solid model. The feeling upon completing one far surpasses that of finishing a plastic kit. I hope many will experience this satisfaction.\\
Solid-model clubs everywhere will gladly welcome such newcomers. Let us, even with my middling skills and carefree approach, enjoy solid modeling to the full—and let us fill the pages of ''Kōkū Fan'' with the solid models we build!\\
''(End)''\\

==== Table of Contents ====
* [[en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:start|f-4b start]]
* [[en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:1965-05|1965 May Issue]]
* [[en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:1965-06|1965 June Issue]]
* [[en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:1965-07|1965 July Issue]]
* [[en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:gallery|Image Gallery]]

----