en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:1965-07
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| en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:1965-07 [2025/11/07 14:50] – admin | en:authors:yasuichi-takami:f-4b:1965-07 [2025/11/25 16:51] (current) – admin | ||
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| + | ~~NOTRANS~~ | ||
| ~~NOTOC~~ | ~~NOTOC~~ | ||
| ====== 1965 July Issue ====== | ====== 1965 July Issue ====== | ||
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| After the gray dries, wet-sand as you did for white. Use compound after scribing. Leave the canopy tape in place a little longer.\\ | After the gray dries, wet-sand as you did for white. Use compound after scribing. Leave the canopy tape in place a little longer.\\ | ||
| - | ====== Panel Lines and Rivets | + | ===== Panel Lines and Rivets ===== |
| In the past, many modelers scribed panel lines during the mock-up stage, but nowadays more do it after the finish coats. This avoids having surfacer fill the scribing and allows shallower lines that still look crisp, even if your hand is not perfect.\\ | In the past, many modelers scribed panel lines during the mock-up stage, but nowadays more do it after the finish coats. This avoids having surfacer fill the scribing and allows shallower lines that still look crisp, even if your hand is not perfect.\\ | ||
| On my models, I scribe deeper (down to bare wood) only on movable surfaces such as flaps and rudders. I scribe very lightly on items like leading-edge flaps, inspection holes, and canopy frames—merely cutting the paint. For ordinary skin joints, a light knife line suffices.\\ | On my models, I scribe deeper (down to bare wood) only on movable surfaces such as flaps and rudders. I scribe very lightly on items like leading-edge flaps, inspection holes, and canopy frames—merely cutting the paint. For ordinary skin joints, a light knife line suffices.\\ | ||
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| When finished, polish the surface with compound or a wax/ | When finished, polish the surface with compound or a wax/ | ||
| - | ====== Markings and Stencils | + | ===== Markings and Stencils ===== |
| At this stage one longs to finish quickly, but resist the urge—markings and stencils are key to a crisp-looking solid model.\\ | At this stage one longs to finish quickly, but resist the urge—markings and stencils are key to a crisp-looking solid model.\\ | ||
| Study photographs carefully to place U.S. national insignia. You can freehand with ruling pen and compass, or mask with tape and cut with a knife; each method has advantages. I used the ruling-pen method, which has been described previously in '' | Study photographs carefully to place U.S. national insignia. You can freehand with ruling pen and compass, or mask with tape and cut with a knife; each method has advantages. I used the ruling-pen method, which has been described previously in '' | ||
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| {{Takami-Phantom-10.jpg}} | {{Takami-Phantom-10.jpg}} | ||
| - | ====== Landing Gear ====== | + | ===== Landing Gear ===== |
| Now for my weakest area: landing gear. Many, like me, are not fond of soldering—attach one part and another pops off, and sooner or later you leap from a burn! At 1:50 scale, do not chase excessive detail; omitting very fine parts is often safer.\\ | Now for my weakest area: landing gear. Many, like me, are not fond of soldering—attach one part and another pops off, and sooner or later you leap from a burn! At 1:50 scale, do not chase excessive detail; omitting very fine parts is often safer.\\ | ||
| Use commercially available 12-mm U-control tailwheels for the main wheels and 8-mm for the nose wheel (two each). File the rounded tire beads flat so they sit properly. For struts, use brass rod or knitting needles; I used brass nails of various sizes—handy if you keep a stock from the hardware store.\\ | Use commercially available 12-mm U-control tailwheels for the main wheels and 8-mm for the nose wheel (two each). File the rounded tire beads flat so they sit properly. For struts, use brass rod or knitting needles; I used brass nails of various sizes—handy if you keep a stock from the hardware store.\\ | ||
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| *Underside of the finished model. The landing-gear installation is clearly visible.*\\ | *Underside of the finished model. The landing-gear installation is clearly visible.*\\ | ||
| - | ====== Installing the Horizontal Tail ====== | + | ===== Installing the Horizontal Tail ===== |
| Carve the left and right horizontal tailplanes as one, finish the section, then separate them. The F-4B has a pronounced **anhedral**; | Carve the left and right horizontal tailplanes as one, finish the section, then separate them. The F-4B has a pronounced **anhedral**; | ||
| Because of the anhedral, the planform appears slightly larger than the drawing—trim to size by checking against the plan. Pin with insect pins to set location, then mount them to the fuselage.\\ | Because of the anhedral, the planform appears slightly larger than the drawing—trim to size by checking against the plan. Pin with insect pins to set location, then mount them to the fuselage.\\ | ||
| This yields an **all-flying tail**, as on the real jet. The gap between fuselage and tailplane is visible on the full-scale aircraft; modeling it this way eases construction and makes marking far simpler—very convenient. Beware: the tailplanes are thin; do not push the pins so deep that they break through.\\ | This yields an **all-flying tail**, as on the real jet. The gap between fuselage and tailplane is visible on the full-scale aircraft; modeling it this way eases construction and makes marking far simpler—very convenient. Beware: the tailplanes are thin; do not push the pins so deep that they break through.\\ | ||
| - | ====== Drop Tanks and Pylons | + | ===== Drop Tanks and Pylons ===== |
| The F-4B carries many stores under the wings, and configurations vary. You may model clean pylons only; I chose two wing drop tanks. Some aircraft carry a centerline tank as well—choose what you like.\\ | The F-4B carries many stores under the wings, and configurations vary. You may model clean pylons only; I chose two wing drop tanks. Some aircraft carry a centerline tank as well—choose what you like.\\ | ||
| There are no tanks on the drawing I used, so I scaled them from photos. Mine are about 12 mm in diameter and roughly 115 mm long. I made the support fairings integral, then trimmed to fit the wing and fixed with pins. I formed the tank circumferential joints by applying thin strips of plastic sheet and over-painting; | There are no tanks on the drawing I used, so I scaled them from photos. Mine are about 12 mm in diameter and roughly 115 mm long. I made the support fairings integral, then trimmed to fit the wing and fixed with pins. I formed the tank circumferential joints by applying thin strips of plastic sheet and over-painting; | ||
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| If everything is OK, clean off fingerprints with a glaze/wax (e.g., Unicon) and polish to a uniform sheen.\\ | If everything is OK, clean off fingerprints with a glaze/wax (e.g., Unicon) and polish to a uniform sheen.\\ | ||
| - | ====== Conclusion | + | ===== Conclusion ===== |
| Thus my “Phantom II” is finished. It looks splendid in photographs, | Thus my “Phantom II” is finished. It looks splendid in photographs, | ||
| This article is not a rigid textbook. If you decide to build one, you need not follow me step by step—use whatever methods you find most suitable. If my notes help even a little, I will be delighted.\\ | This article is not a rigid textbook. If you decide to build one, you need not follow me step by step—use whatever methods you find most suitable. If my notes help even a little, I will be delighted.\\ | ||
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| Solid-model clubs everywhere will gladly welcome such newcomers. Let us, even with my middling skills and carefree approach, enjoy solid modeling to the full—and let us fill the pages of '' | Solid-model clubs everywhere will gladly welcome such newcomers. Let us, even with my middling skills and carefree approach, enjoy solid modeling to the full—and let us fill the pages of '' | ||
| '' | '' | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Table of Contents ==== | ||
| + | * [[en: | ||
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