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 In last month’s issue, we explained the construction of the main wing—including the retractable landing gear—and the engine section.
 This month, we will build the fuselage and tail unit, assemble the airframe, and complete the finish.\\
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-(A) For aircraft such as the Ki-44, whose fuselage—aside from the engine section—is mostly bounded by straight lines, I divided the fuselage into three parts.
+(**A**) For aircraft such as the Ki-44, whose fuselage—aside from the engine section—is mostly bounded by straight lines, I divided the fuselage into three parts.
 However, for airframes with strong curvature like the *Raiden*, division into seven to ten sections is required.
 The numbers in (A) indicate the order of fuselage attachment:
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 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making22.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(B) This step illustrates how to join the fuselage sections.
+(**B**) This step illustrates how to join the fuselage sections.
 If the paper thickness is adequate, apply cement directly to each cut surface and use several clothespins—narrowed at the tips—to hold the joints as shown.
 This method is extremely convenient.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making24.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(C) This diagram shows fuselage section (5), which contains the tail-wheel retraction mechanism.
+(**C**) This diagram shows fuselage section (5), which contains the tail-wheel retraction mechanism.
 At 1/50 scale, even grasping the tail-wheel with fingertips can be difficult.
 However, by drilling a hole into an old triangular ruler and pinning the U-shaped metal fitting (D), then shaping it with a file, the work becomes much easier.
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 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making25.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(D) Next, construct the tail surfaces.
+(**D**) Next, construct the tail surfaces.
 Because the structure is identical to last month’s aileron method, the explanation is omitted here.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making26.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(E) Assembly and installation of the vertical tail are shown.\\
+(**E**) Assembly and installation of the vertical tail are shown.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making27.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(F) To install the horizontal tailplane, pass wire through the appropriate location and cement the tailplane in place.\\
+(**F**) To install the horizontal tailplane, pass wire through the appropriate location and cement the tailplane in place.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making28.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(G) Fillets are notoriously troublesome in wooden solid models, but in paper construction, they are surprisingly simple.
+(**G**) Fillets are notoriously troublesome in wooden solid models, but in paper construction, they are surprisingly simple.
 First, attach the lower triangular fillet according to the drawing, then divide paper of cigarette-packet thickness into three or four strips and install them as shown.
 With practice, the method becomes extremely easy and can be applied to any size.
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-(H) After the putty dries, form the exhaust pipes by rolling tinplate into tubes.
+(**H**) After the putty dries, form the exhaust pipes by rolling tinplate into tubes.
 Cut a slot at position (A) and secure with cement.
 Then apply backing paper at (G) and attach the engine section.
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-(J) Propellers carved from bamboo with pitch are difficult for beginners.
+(**J**) Propellers carved from bamboo with pitch are difficult for beginners.
 Here, we describe a method using tinplate.
 Cut the blades from tin; taper the roots so they insert into the spinner.
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 For the instrument panel, paint paper green and draw dials in white ink.\\
-(K) Painting methods have been published previously and are similar to wooden solid models.
+(**K**) Painting methods have been published previously and are similar to wooden solid models.
 In brief:
 • After applying putty, sand thoroughly.
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 For reference, the lacquer-painting process chart published in the *Saiunkai Bulletin* is included below.\\
+^ Step ^ Process ^ Materials & Mixing Ratio ^ Drying Time ^ Notes ^
+| 1 | Surface sanding | Sandpaper (coarse to medium: #100–#150) |  |  |
+| 2 | First surfacer application | Wood surfacer 5 : thinner 5 | 5 |  |
+| 3 | Putty application | Lacquer putty | 3 |  |
+| 4 | Wet sanding | Wet sandpaper (#320) | 5 | Return to Step 3 if necessary |
+| 5 | Second surfacer application | Wood surfacer 5 : thinner 5 | 5 |  |
+| 6 | Wet sanding | Wet sandpaper (#400) | 5 |  |
+| 7 | Lacquer coating | Lacquer 5 : thinner 5 | 3 | For silver finish, use clear lacquer silver |
+| 8 | Lacquer coating | Same as above |  |  |
+| 9 | Wet sanding | Wet sandpaper (#420) | 10 |  |
+| 10 | Lacquer coating | Lacquer 5 : thinner 5 | 5 |  |
+| 11 | Detail painting | Lacquer (various colors) | 5 | Canopy frames, markings, etc. |
+| 12 | Clear lacquer coating | Clear lacquer 5 : thinner 5 | 5 |  |
+| 13 | Clear lacquer coating | Same as above | 5 |  |
+| 14 | Final finish |  |  |  |
+\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making32.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-(L) After painting, perform the equivalent of panel-line scribing used in wooden solids.
+(**L**) After painting, perform the equivalent of panel-line scribing used in wooden solids.
 This step is troublesome, but must be done **before** the final coat fully dries—use a knife to incise the lines.
 Once complete, install the antenna, guns, and other external fittings as shown in (L).
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 Even small hints can be valuable; I sincerely hope that solid-model enthusiasts submit ideas to this magazine, and hereby conclude this installment.
+<WRAP center small>
+[[en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:1955-02|← 1955 February Issue]] ｜
+[[en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:start|Back to Paper-Solid Index]] ｜
+[[en:authors:omachi-masami:start|Back to Masami Ōmachi Author Page]]
+</WRAP>