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-As **step (B)** (see Figure (B)), we move on to the main-wing construction.
+(**B**) (see Figure (B)), we move on to the main-wing construction.
 As you can see, place the drawing on graph paper and cut out the wing parts from paper chosen as described above, matching it to the planform.
 Cut out the gear bays, ailerons, and flaps all in one piece.
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 Next, install the spars.
 Taking into account the thickness of the upper and lower wing skins, cut the spars from something like cardboard.
-A layout roughly as indicated by (ku) in the diagram is structurally sufficient.
+A layout roughly as indicated by (B) in the diagram is structurally sufficient.
 At this stage, you must ensure that when the upper wing skin is placed on top, the landing gear can be fully retracted into the wing.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making04.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-In **step (C)** (see Figure (C)), attach the gear made in step (A) to the lower wing skin from step (B).
+(**C**) (see Figure (C)), attach the gear made in step (A) to the lower wing skin from step (B).
 The figure shows the gear in the extended position.
-The key is the hairpin spring (ha), which clamps the fitting (i) from step (A) at point (he) in this figure.
+The key is the hairpin spring (C), which clamps the fitting (A) from step (A) at point (F) in this figure.
 When the gear is folded, this hairpin opens, and with a slight pull by fingertip the gear snaps smartly down.
 If, during taxiing or landing roll, the gear tends to retract, increase the number of “pins” to two or three as reinforcement for the spring.
-Part (ro) is made from old celluloid rulers, thoroughly glued with Cemedine.
+Part (B) is made from old celluloid rulers, thoroughly glued with Cemedine.
-Ideally there would be one such piece (ro) at both front and rear, but on the Ki-44—unlike the Ki-43—the gear retracts with a twist of about 2–3 degrees, so the retainer (ni) is used to hold the hairpin firmly in place.
+Ideally there would be one such piece (B) at both front and rear, but on the Ki-44—unlike the Ki-43—the gear retracts with a twist of about 2–3 degrees, so the retainer (D) is used to hold the hairpin firmly in place.
 (The same twisted-retraction arrangement applies to types such as the Me 109, Spitfire, and Saiun, where the gear is first twisted and then retracted.)
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-**(E)** shows the flap construction.
+(**E**) shows the flap construction.
-Cut vinyl tubing to suitable lengths and bend a piece of wire that fits snugly inside into a U-shape as in (i).
+Cut vinyl tubing to suitable lengths and bend a piece of wire that fits snugly inside into a U-shape as in (A).
-For (ro), reuse the flap piece you previously cut out; file the portion (ha), and then, as shown in (ni), glue down the vinyl tube firmly with a strip of paper using Cemedine.
+For (B), reuse the flap piece you previously cut out; file the portion (C), and then, as shown in (D), glue down the vinyl tube firmly with a strip of paper using Cemedine.
-For the tube at (he), use a piece that is slightly loose on the wire so that the flap can slide smoothly later.
+For the tube at (F), use a piece that is slightly loose on the wire so that the flap can slide smoothly later.
 This combination of wire and vinyl tubing is used for movable control surfaces throughout, so please keep it in mind.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making07.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-**(F)** shows the flap from the previous step installed on the wing.
+(**F**) shows the flap from the previous step installed on the wing.
-(i) is the flap, and (ro) is the retainer for the vinyl tube; (ha) is the main gear.
+(A) is the flap, and (B) is the retainer for the vinyl tube; (C) is the main gear.
-File the area at (ni) in advance.
+File the area at (D) in advance.
 After the Cemedine has dried, be sure to check that the flap slides smoothly.\\
 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making08.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-**(G)** shows the aileron construction, which is almost the same method as for the flaps.
+(**G**) shows the aileron construction, which is almost the same method as for the flaps.
 In this case, paper from cigarette boxes is suitable.
-First, fold the paper in two and cut it to shape as in the drawing, then cut out the opening at (ro).
+First, fold the paper in two and cut it to shape as in the drawing, then cut out the opening at (B).
-Next, as in (ni), bend a length of wire threaded through vinyl tubing into a U-shape and pass it through the opening as in diagram (ho).
+Next, as in (D), bend a length of wire threaded through vinyl tubing into a U-shape and pass it through the opening as in diagram (E).
-Glue the cardboard piece (paper core) shown in (ho) as in (he) with Cemedine, then fold the two halves together and glue.
+Glue the cardboard piece (paper core) shown in (E) as in (F) with Cemedine, then fold the two halves together and glue.
 (Refer to the flap cross-section.)
 This structure is used generally for all movable control surfaces.\\
-{{:ja:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making09.jpg?nolink|}}\\
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making09.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-**(H)** The upper wing skin in this step is a troublesome part until you get used to it, so please work patiently.
+(**H**) The upper wing skin in this step is a troublesome part until you get used to it, so please work patiently.
-Cut the area indicated by the dotted line at (i) slightly larger than the drawing.
+Cut the area indicated by the dotted line at (A) slightly larger than the drawing.
 At the bulge over the gear bay and at the wingtip, make three or four relief cuts.
 Even if you cut a little too much, there is no need to worry, as the shape will ultimately be refined with lacquer putty.
-(RO) is the flap from the previous step, and it is installed under the upper wing skin as in (ni), using paper strips as retainers.
+(B) is the flap from the previous step, and it is installed under the upper wing skin as in (D), using paper strips as retainers.
 The reason it is not attached to the lower wing is that, given the wing thickness, a small gap would appear if placed below, whereas mounting it to the upper skin makes such gaps less noticeable.
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 Take plenty of time and finish it cleanly.\\
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+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making10.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-**(I)** Figure 1 shows the upper wing skin from the previous step glued onto the lower wing assembly.
+(**I**) Figure 1 shows the upper wing skin from the previous step glued onto the lower wing assembly.
 Here, trim the overhanging trailing edge to match the lower wing.
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 The bulged details on the wing underside will be added at the very end.\\
-{{:ja:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making11.jpg?nolink|}}\\
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making11.jpg?nolink|}}\\
-**(J)** Next comes the engine cowling at the very front of the fuselage, but you will find that it is simpler than it looks.
+(**J**) Next comes the engine cowling at the very front of the fuselage, but you will find that it is simpler than it looks.
-First, cut a doughnut-shaped ring from thick cardboard (even of inferior quality) as in (i).
+First, cut a doughnut-shaped ring from thick cardboard (even of inferior quality) as in (A).
 Gradually increase the outer diameter to match the drawing, paying attention also to the inner diameter.
-As in (ro), apply plenty of Cemedine, let it dry thoroughly, and then file to final shape.
+As in (B), apply plenty of Cemedine, let it dry thoroughly, and then file to final shape.
 For the inner diameter, form it with due regard to the carburetor intake, and press down any fiber fuzz with Cemedine.
-Then attach the bulkhead (ni).
+Then attach the bulkhead (D).
-(Ho) is divided into two parts, upper and lower, and glued to the front.
+(E) is divided into two parts, upper and lower, and glued to the front.
 In this step, clothespins are handy for holding the upper and lower pieces from shifting while they dry.
-The small paper strips (to) are for attaching the cowl flaps later.
+The small paper strips (G) are for attaching the cowl flaps later.
 Finally, lightly file the Cemedine ridges to level them, coat the entire cowling with lacquer putty, and finish with sandpaper.\\
-{{:ja:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making12.jpg?nolink|}}\\
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:paper-solid:paper_solid_making12.jpg?nolink|}}\\
 **(K)** The propeller-rotation unit must be inserted into the cowling made in the previous step, and here we take the opportunity to construct a simple imitation engine and install it.
-Cut out the paper strips as in (i) and wrap fine steel wire around them.
+Cut out the paper strips as in (A) and wrap fine steel wire around them.
-Next, make the fitting (ha) using tinned hookup wire or similar, and attach it as in (ni).
+Next, make the fitting (C) using tinned hookup wire or similar, and attach it as in (D).
 For the rotating portion, work brass sheet into shape as in the figure; I used insect pins for part (to).
-(Ho) and (o) are paper pieces that will be fixed inside the cowling.
+(E) and (J) are paper pieces that will be fixed inside the cowling.
 (Saiunkai)  — *to be continued*\\
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 Three-view drawing of Ki-44 II type
 From *Sekai no Kōkūki* (“Aircraft of the World”), Hōbun Shorin,
 February 1955 issue, pp.100–103.
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