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en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:1956-04 [2025/11/12 11:46] – [Engine Section Work] adminen:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:1956-04 [2025/11/18 19:42] (current) admin
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 ~~NOTOC~~ ~~NOTOC~~
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 {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei21.jpg?nolink|}}\\ {{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei21.jpg?nolink|}}\\
 Continuing from last month’s article, let us proceed with the explanation. Continuing from last month’s article, let us proceed with the explanation.
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 (E) Panel-Joint “Grain” & Rivets — Prepare a sharp, round-tipped awl. While the paint is not fully cured (about ~20 minutes after finishing coats, when it no longer takes fingerprints), lightly draw panel-joint marks with a knife point, following references and **Figure 3**. If the paint has fully cured, the marks will not catch light and will be invisible.\\ (E) Panel-Joint “Grain” & Rivets — Prepare a sharp, round-tipped awl. While the paint is not fully cured (about ~20 minutes after finishing coats, when it no longer takes fingerprints), lightly draw panel-joint marks with a knife point, following references and **Figure 3**. If the paint has fully cured, the marks will not catch light and will be invisible.\\
 Wrap tape around the fuselage as a guide line when helpful (also effective on the cowl). Then punch rivets with the awl at about 1 mm spacing, varying spacing/size around fillets vs. ordinary panels as on the real aircraft. Work patiently and consistently. Wrap tape around the fuselage as a guide line when helpful (also effective on the cowl). Then punch rivets with the awl at about 1 mm spacing, varying spacing/size around fillets vs. ordinary panels as on the real aircraft. Work patiently and consistently.
 +{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei24.jpg?nolink&600|}}
 (F) Compound Polish — Use rubbing compound (sold at paint stores; shared among friends to avoid waste). Apply a small amount to a cloth and polish lightly. Caution: compounds contain abrasive grit—over-polishing can cut through color to the surfacer and undo your efforts. Beginners should start with just a fingertip amount, wipe, then finish with a clean cloth.\\ (F) Compound Polish — Use rubbing compound (sold at paint stores; shared among friends to avoid waste). Apply a small amount to a cloth and polish lightly. Caution: compounds contain abrasive grit—over-polishing can cut through color to the surfacer and undo your efforts. Beginners should start with just a fingertip amount, wipe, then finish with a clean cloth.\\
 My aim with compound is mainly to soften any brush marks. In good conditions, a well-brushed lacquer will already shine; compound plus the next step brings a deep, restrained sheen. Compound lodged in lines and rivets slightly accentuates them. My aim with compound is mainly to soften any brush marks. In good conditions, a well-brushed lacquer will already shine; compound plus the next step brings a deep, restrained sheen. Compound lodged in lines and rivets slightly accentuates them.
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 Fix a back armor plate, insert a loop antenna made of wire (see **Figure** 4), and glue on the canopy (**Figure 5**) with vinyl adhesive if you formed it in vinyl; hold with masking tape while curing. The antenna mast can also be tinplate.\\ Fix a back armor plate, insert a loop antenna made of wire (see **Figure** 4), and glue on the canopy (**Figure 5**) with vinyl adhesive if you formed it in vinyl; hold with masking tape while curing. The antenna mast can also be tinplate.\\
 Earlier we sawed open the exhaust outlets. To suggest internal framing, insert three small triangular tinplate tabs with pliers and paint them; this gives the impression of a hollow interior. Earlier we sawed open the exhaust outlets. To suggest internal framing, insert three small triangular tinplate tabs with pliers and paint them; this gives the impression of a hollow interior.
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 +{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei26.jpg?nolink&600|}}\\
 ==== Landing-Gear Installation ==== ==== Landing-Gear Installation ====
 For the final assembly, glue the previously separate engine section to the fuselage, then fit the oil cooler from the airframe to the engine unit (paint blue-gray; see **Figure 6**).\\ For the final assembly, glue the previously separate engine section to the fuselage, then fit the oil cooler from the airframe to the engine unit (paint blue-gray; see **Figure 6**).\\
 On thick wings you can sometimes socket the gear legs, but modern jets have very thin wings with little room. The following retention method works even on thin airfoils: drive two insect pins more than 1 cm into the wing with pliers at the gear station and solder the strut to them. This withstood a ~10 cm drop test in my trials.\\ On thick wings you can sometimes socket the gear legs, but modern jets have very thin wings with little room. The following retention method works even on thin airfoils: drive two insect pins more than 1 cm into the wing with pliers at the gear station and solder the strut to them. This withstood a ~10 cm drop test in my trials.\\
 Install the tailwheel similarly. Fit the gun barrels and pitot. On larger scales (around 1:30), adding the antenna wire increases realism: embed a small tinplate tab atop the fin and run fine copper wire to the mast. Install the tailwheel similarly. Fit the gun barrels and pitot. On larger scales (around 1:30), adding the antenna wire increases realism: embed a small tinplate tab atop the fin and run fine copper wire to the mast.
 +{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei27.jpg?nolink&600|}}
 +With drop tanks installed, the model is complete—time to celebrate with a ramune!((“Ramune” is a nostalgic Japanese soda; this playful toast closes the project in a warm, era-specific tone.))
  
-With drop tanks installed, the model is complete—time to celebrate with a ramune! +In solid modeling, once you have the order of operations, anyone can succeed. If this article helps you complete your model, please send photos and a report—I look forward to them. Questions are welcome; I will answer in these pages.\\
- +
-In solid modeling, once you have the order of operations, anyone can succeed. If this article helps you complete your model, please send photos and a report—I look forward to them. Questions are welcome; I will answer in these pages. +
- +
-Notes on Figures+
  
-Figure 2 (A–D): Engine section partition, cowl-flap seat, exhaust stubs, simple front-row radial representation.\\+----
  
-Figure 3Panel-joint grain and rivet placement guides.\\+<WRAP center small> 
 +[[en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:1956-03|← 1956 March Issue]] |  
 +[[en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:start|Back to A6M ZERO Index]] 
 +</WRAP>
  
-Figure 4–6: Loop antenna, canopy forming/attachment, oil-cooler placement.\\ 
  
-Propeller: Spinner and blade assembly as described above. 
en/authors/omachi-masami/a6m_zero/1956-04.1762915593.txt.gz · Last modified: by admin