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 ~~NOTOC~~
-===== Continuing from Last Month =====
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei21.jpg?nolink|}}\\
+Continuing from last month’s article, let us proceed with the explanation.
-==== Propeller Construction ====
+==== Propeller Work ====
+We will continue from last month with the propeller.\\
+Prepare a small quantity of suitable tinplate. Carefully examine photographs of the Zero’s propeller and sketch the blade shape on the tinplate. Because propeller blades carry pitch, if you simply cut the planform from a flat drawing and then twist it, the blade looks too slender from the front view. Add a little extra chord width before cutting a single test blade.\\
+Twist that test blade to give pitch, compare it against photos, and if the look is acceptable, use it as a master to cut three blades.
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei22.jpg?nolink&600|}}
+At the spinner insertion area, cut the blade root with an extended tang (about 3 mm extra) as in the diagram, and make a few small retention notches with tin snips to prevent pull-out from the spinner.\\
+Mark the three insertion positions on the spinner. With a sharp knife, open the slots at the correct angle, then insert each blade carefully using pliers without bending the root. Spin the assembly and correct any runout by subtle adjustment.
-For the propeller, prepare a small amount of suitable **tinplate**.\\
+When the basic fitting is done, tune the pitch. This metal-blade method shines here: while carved bamboo or wood blades can lose symmetry or thickness—and multi-engine models become discouraging to match—you can re-adjust metal blades until you are satisfied.
-Study photographs to understand the *Zero*’s propeller planform, then draw it on the tinplate. Since real propellers have **pitch**, if you simply cut out the exact 2-D outline from a drawing and then twist it to add pitch, it will look too narrow from the front. To compensate, **add a little extra chord** to your blade pattern before cutting out a single trial blade.\\
-Twist this blade to give it pitch, compare with photos, and if the look is right, **use it as the master** to cut the remaining **three** blades.\\
-For the portion that inserts into the **spinner**, cut the blade root longer (about **3 mm**) as shown, and make a few **small slits** with tin snips; these notches help prevent the blade from pulling out of the spinner.\\
+To give airfoil thickness to each blade, apply lacquer putty with your fingertip. Because the root should be thicker, apply in thin multiple coats, letting each coat dry—about two days overall.\\
-Next, mark the insertion points on the spinner. Using a sharp knife, open the slots at the correct **angles**, and—taking care not to bend the blade roots with pliers—insert the blades. Give the assembly a test spin, observe the running, and **true** any wobble.\\
+After drying, knock down high spots with sandpaper and finish with waterproof paper (around #280) to the final section. Pay special attention to root shape and tip thickness—this area is very conspicuous, so finish it cleanly.
-When that is done, set the **final pitch**. This method shines because you can freely set the pitch—refer closely to photographs and shape a **clean, graceful** pitch.\\
+Finally, spray or brush lacquer surfacer two or three times over the whole propeller, sand with water-paper, then paint to finish. I have built 20–30 propeller aircraft with this tinplate + putty blade method and have never had a blade/putty separation issue—rest assured. Do not attempt to change the pitch after putty fairing and finish.
-With bamboo or wooden blades, one risks over-carving or pitch mismatch—especially on twins or four-engined aircraft. Tinplate blades let you **redo the pitch** until you are satisfied, which is a real advantage.\\
-To impart **thickness (airfoil camber)**, apply **lacquer putty** with your fingertip. Because the blade roots are heavier, build up in several **thin coats**, letting each dry; then allow **about two days** for full curing.\\
+==== Engine Section Work ====
-Once dry, knock down the roughness with sandpaper, then **finish-shape with #280 wet-and-dry**. Pay particular attention to the root fairing and tip thickness; it’s a highly visible area, so finish it **cleanly**.\\
+For manufacturing convenience this Zero was built with the engine section separated from the fuselage. This section explains how to finish the engine unit.
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei23e.jpg?nolink&600|}}
+As shown in **Figure 2** (A), glue a thin partition (paper) between the engine front and the intake duct area, and drill the gun ports with an awl.\\
+At the same time, prepare for cowl flaps by recessing their seating groove about 1 mm deep. After these preliminaries, apply 4–5 coats of lacquer surfacer (details on painting follow below) and then base-color the unit before proceeding to step (B).
-Finally, apply **lacquer surfacer** overall **2–3** times, wet-sand, then paint to finish. I have built **20–30** prop-driven models using this “tinplate + putty” method and have **never** had putty separate from tinplate. (Do **not** try to change the pitch **after** shaping with putty.)\\
+**Figure 2** (C) shows the method for exhaust stubs and cowl-flap installation. Determine the exact exhaust positions from the drawings; bend appropriate-gauge copper wire (or hard wire) to shape, pre-drill the holes, and insert.\
+Tubing (e.g., small aluminum/brass tube) can add realism thanks to the hollow ends, but tight hook bends tend to crush tubing, so I used copper wire. Dress all outlet ends to uniform length with a file.
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+Cut strips of black-dyed paper (smooth, e.g., vacuum-tube or cigarette boxes) to the cowl-flap width; knife out the small notches where the exhausts intrude (check references). Then separate into individual flaps and glue sparingly, placing each carefully with tweezers. Setting the flaps slightly open at an angle gives a lively look.\\
+Important: do not over-apply adhesive—squeeze-out will melt lacquer and look unsightly.
-==== Engine Section ====
+In parallel, fabricate a simple front-row radial using tinplate: as in **Figure 2** (D), cut a star-shaped backing and wrap tinned hookup wire around it for pushrod or fin suggestion; attach with adhesive. Because the spinner is large, little can be seen inside; this level of representation is sufficient.
-For production convenience, this *Zero* was built with the **engine section separated from the fuselage**. Here we finish the engine unit.\\
+With that, the engine unit is done. Working it off the airframe should have made the job easier. Glue the engine to the fuselage after the airframe is fully finished.
-* Glue a **paper bulkhead** at the boundary between the engine and the air-intake section, and drill the **gun ports** using an awl.\\
-* Because **cowl flaps** will be attached, **recess** the flap band about **1 mm** deep.\\
-* Apply **4–5 coats** of lacquer surfacer (painting details appear later), then color the parts and proceed.\\
-For the **exhausts and cowl-flap band**: determine exact exhaust locations from the drawings, bend **suitable-gauge copper wire**, drill pilot holes, and insert. Tubing would give hollow ends but collapses on tight hook-bends; copper wire is safer. File all tips to **equal length**.\\
-Cut **smooth black paper** into a long strip equal to the **cowl-flap width**. With a razor, notch where the exhausts “bite in” (work from good references). Then cut into individual **segments**, apply a **small** amount of adhesive, and attach carefully with tweezers—slightly **open** the flaps for a lively appearance. Avoid glue squeeze-out.\\
-Make the **engine face** from tinplate: cut a **star-shaped** plate and wind **plated wire** to represent fins; glue per the figure. Because the spinner is large, this **simple representation** suffices.\\
-When the airframe is **fully finished**, glue on the engine unit.\\
-----
 ==== Airframe Work ====
+Proceeding to the airframe: in addition to what we covered last month, first cut the wheel-well openings for the main gear on the wing underside and the tailwheel bay.\\
+Method notes: with a 6 mm (≈2 bu) chisel this goes quickly and cleanly. Depth about 2–3 mm; paint the interior black to create depth.\\
+Also, following the plans, open the arrestor-hook slot, and drill the 7.7 mm gun ports ahead of the cockpit (at the engine–fuselage boundary). Complete these operations before painting.
-Following last month’s steps, carve the **main-gear** and **tail-wheel** retraction wells on the **wing undersides**. With a **6 mm (≈1/4″)** chisel, this goes quickly and finishes cleanly. Carve to **2–3 mm** depth and paint the recesses **black** to suggest depth.\\
+==== Painting ====
-Carve the **tail-wheel well** per the drawings, the **arresting-hook slot** likewise, and open the **7.7 mm gun ports** in front of the cockpit (at the engine/fuselage boundary) with knife and awl. With these tasks done, proceed to **Painting**.\\
+We now tackle the stage many find daunting—painting. If the sequence is correct, even first-timers need not worry. Assuming most readers lack a spray gun, the method described is brush painting (hand application). The engine unit is painted in the same manner.
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+Below is the overall sequence, with step labels standardized to A/B/C/D/E/F/G:
-==== Painting ====
+(A) Undercoats / Surfacer — 3–5 passes (wet-sand with #320)\\
+(B) Color Coats — 3–4 passes (with interim wet-sand)\\
+(C) Panel-line Scribing (then in-line tinting)\\
+(D) Final Color (thin finishing coats)\\
+(E) Riveting / Panel-joint “grain”\\
+(F) Compound Polishing\\
+(G) Uni-polish (finishing glaze)\\
-Painting is the notorious “hard part,” but if you follow the **sequence**, even first-timers can succeed. We assume **hand-brushing** (no airbrush). The engine is painted the same way.\\
+We will go step by step.
-=== Process Overview (A–G) ===
+(A) Surfacer — No special products are required beyond lacquer surfacer. Some use clear lacquer as a sealer, but you will find that surfacer sands more controllably and fills micro-pores, making it far more convenient. Apply with a good brush that does not shed bristles.\\
-  * **A. Primer coats** — lacquer **surfacer**; wet-sand with **#320**; **3–5 coats**\\
+After roughly 3 coats, let dry thoroughly, then wet-sand the whole surface with #280–#320 and a little water to obtain a clean, even finish. Apply 2–3 more coats of surfacer, dry, and wet-sand again.\\
-  * **B. Color coats** — **3–4 coats** with inter-coat wet-sanding\\
+Because surfacer is applied thinly, 3–5 coats can approach ~1 mm total if you never sand back; avoid over-thick sections like the horizontal tail by sanding to maintain scale appearance.
-  * **C. Panel-line scribing** — then spot-tone **inside** the lines\\
-  * **D. Final color coats** — light finishing passes\\
-  * **E. Fastener patterning** — simulated **rivets**\\
-  * **F. Compound rub-out** — knock down brush marks\\
-  * **G. Unicon polish** — final gloss and protection\\
-=== A. Primer (Lacquer Surfacer) ===
+(B) Color Coats — Use the IJN standard scheme: dark green upper surfaces and blue-gray undersides. I painted the entire engine unit black.\\
-Use **lacquer surfacer** rather than clear lacquer: it wetsands easily and fills minor undulations.\\
+For dark green, many commercial lacquers are acceptable as-is. For blue-gray, mix white with a very small amount of black to a light gray, then add a touch of blue.\\
-Brush on evenly with a good **non-shedding** brush. After ~**3 coats**, dry thoroughly and **wet-sand** with **#280–#320**, using a little water. Apply **2–3** more coats, dry, and wet-sand again.\\
+Choose a clear day for painting. Insert an awl in a hidden spot as a temporary handle; apply 2–3 coats to the undersides, then 2–3 coats of green to the topside, keeping coverage even. Modest surface unevenness is acceptable—use richer lacquer and lay it on sufficiently.
-Avoid over-thickening thin parts (e.g., **horizontal tail**)—sand as needed.\\
-=== B. Color (IJN Standard Scheme) ===
+(C) Panel-Line Scribing — We scribe after major coats. Many hobbyists scribe into bare wood first, but repeated surfacer and color coats fill fine lines, forcing re-cutting and marring the finish. By scribing at this stage, only very light finishing coats follow, so the lines remain visible.\\
-Upper surfaces: **dark green**. Undersides: **blue-gray**. The engine: **black**. Commercial greens are often usable **as is**; for blue-gray, mix white + a trace of black (light gray), then add blue to taste.\\
+Use a keen kiridashi/craft knife; polish the edge. Start on the underside—as with markings, practice where mistakes are less visible. Measure flaps and ailerons from the drawings; keep line width and depth consistent. Grain can pull the blade—use a truly sharp edge.\\
-On a **clear day**, use an awl as a handle. Paint undersides **2–3** coats; then paint upper green **2–3** coats. Minor unevenness is acceptable; use **slightly thicker lacquer** and apply generously.\\
+When scribing is complete, lightly tint inside the lines with a fine brush; later thin finishing coats will not fully hide raw wood color inside the grooves.
-=== C. Scribing (Panel Lines) ===
+(D) Final Color (Finishing Coats) — On two-tone schemes, always paint the lighter color first. Thin the previous mix roughly 1:2 with thinner and apply 2–3 light coats to the undersides (first ensure no remaining bumps; wet-sand if needed). Repeat for uppers. Apply masking tape along the leading edges to prevent runs and level the edge.\\
-Scribe **now** rather than in bare wood, so coats don’t fill the lines. After scribing, only **two light finishing coats** follow, so the lines won’t disappear.\\
+In fine weather, the finish dries within a few hours, after which you can letter and mark. Before that, as with my Corsair build, we will add panel-joint “grain” and rivets to heighten realism—this is laborious but rewarding.
-Use a **well-honed knife**. Start on the **underside** (also best for practicing markings). Measure flaps and ailerons from the drawings; keep **line width/depth** consistent. After scribing, place a **light coat** of color **inside the grooves** so raw wood doesn’t peek through.\\
-=== D. Finishing Color Coats ===
+(E) Panel-Joint “Grain” & Rivets — Prepare a sharp, round-tipped awl. While the paint is not fully cured (about ~20 minutes after finishing coats, when it no longer takes fingerprints), lightly draw panel-joint marks with a knife point, following references and **Figure 3**. If the paint has fully cured, the marks will not catch light and will be invisible.\\
-On two-tone schemes, paint the **lighter color first**. Thin your mixed paint roughly **2×**. Inspect and fair any undulations, then apply **2–3 very light passes** to undersides and uppers. Use **lacquer tape** along the **leading edge** to prevent runs and control the ridge.\\
+Wrap tape around the fuselage as a guide line when helpful (also effective on the cowl). Then punch rivets with the awl at about 1 mm spacing, varying spacing/size around fillets vs. ordinary panels as on the real aircraft. Work patiently and consistently.
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei24.jpg?nolink&600|}}
+(F) Compound Polish — Use rubbing compound (sold at paint stores; shared among friends to avoid waste). Apply a small amount to a cloth and polish lightly. Caution: compounds contain abrasive grit—over-polishing can cut through color to the surfacer and undo your efforts. Beginners should start with just a fingertip amount, wipe, then finish with a clean cloth.\\
+My aim with compound is mainly to soften any brush marks. In good conditions, a well-brushed lacquer will already shine; compound plus the next step brings a deep, restrained sheen. Compound lodged in lines and rivets slightly accentuates them.
-=== E. “Rivets” and Joint Lines ===
+(G) Uni-Polish (Finishing Glaze) — Apply Uni-con–type finishing polish (a vinyl-type glaze). Because this leaves a thin film, complete national markings and codes first.\\
-About **20 minutes** after painting (surface set, not fully cured), lightly indicate **lap joints** and panels per references. Wrapping **tape** around the fuselage as a guide helps (cowling too).\\
+For hinomaru, I use a ruling pen for the circle: first outline the white ring, fill inward 3–4 mm, let dry, then outline/fill the red. The key is paint viscosity: too thick won’t flow; too thin will run. Practice on paper until the flow is right.\\
-Dot in **rivets** with a sharp, round-tipped awl at about **1 mm spacing**, adjusting size/spacing around **wing-root fillets**, etc. Work patiently to keep spacing and alignment.\\
+Many photos show no stenciling, but the fin number on the vertical tail should be added. Use paper surgical tape as guides and letter within the bounds.
-=== F. Compound Rub ===
+Finish by polishing with Uni-con using a very soft, velvety cloth.
-Use **automotive polishing compound** sparingly. Beginners should dab with a **finger**, wipe with cloth, then buff with a **clean** cloth. Aim mainly to **knock down brush marks**. Residue in scribed lines and rivets will **visually pop** the detail. With a soft cloth and **20–30 minutes** of patient rubbing, you’ll get a subdued **deep sheen**.\\
-=== G. Unicon Polish & Markings ===
+When I first used compound and Uni-polish—taught by senior modelers Mr. Takasaki and Mr. Nakamura of Onchikai—the result rivaled spray finishes with virtually no brush-mark. I was delighted.
-Apply **Unicon** (vinyl-type finisher) and buff with a **very soft** cloth. Because Unicon leaves a **thin film** that impedes lettering, do **national markings and codes after the compound** and **before** Unicon.\\
-For **hinomaru**, a **ruling pen** (*karasuguchi*) works well: draw the **outer white ring**, fill **3–4 mm** inward with white; after drying, draw the **red ring** and fill the center red. Practice on paper and tune **lacquer viscosity** (too thick won’t flow; too thin floods). Tail codes can be guided with **paper lacquer-tape**.\\
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 ==== Seat Construction ====
+Build the cockpit seat to the level your skill allows—the Zero affords generous room, so details are feasible. The real seat is bare duralumin; forming it in tinplate is easier than paper or wood. Leave it unpainted and glue it to the floor.\\
+Fix a back armor plate, insert a loop antenna made of wire (see **Figure** 4), and glue on the canopy (**Figure 5**) with vinyl adhesive if you formed it in vinyl; hold with masking tape while curing. The antenna mast can also be tinplate.\\
+Earlier we sawed open the exhaust outlets. To suggest internal framing, insert three small triangular tinplate tabs with pliers and paint them; this gives the impression of a hollow interior.
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei25.jpg?nolink&600|}}\\
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei26.jpg?nolink&600|}}\\
+==== Landing-Gear Installation ====
+For the final assembly, glue the previously separate engine section to the fuselage, then fit the oil cooler from the airframe to the engine unit (paint blue-gray; see **Figure 6**).\\
+On thick wings you can sometimes socket the gear legs, but modern jets have very thin wings with little room. The following retention method works even on thin airfoils: drive two insect pins more than 1 cm into the wing with pliers at the gear station and solder the strut to them. This withstood a ~10 cm drop test in my trials.\\
+Install the tailwheel similarly. Fit the gun barrels and pitot. On larger scales (around 1:30), adding the antenna wire increases realism: embed a small tinplate tab atop the fin and run fine copper wire to the mast.
+{{:en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:making-rei27.jpg?nolink&600|}}
+With drop tanks installed, the model is complete—time to celebrate with a ramune!((“Ramune” is a nostalgic Japanese soda; this playful toast closes the project in a warm, era-specific tone.))
-Work to your preferred detail level; the *Zero*’s cockpit is roomy. The **seat** is **bare duralumin** on the real aircraft—fabricate in **tinplate**, leave unpainted, and glue to the floor.\\
+In solid modeling, once you have the order of operations, anyone can succeed. If this article helps you complete your model, please send photos and a report—I look forward to them. Questions are welcome; I will answer in these pages.\\
-Fix a **bullet-proof back plate**; add a **loop antenna** from wire (see Fig. 4). Glue the **canopy** with **vinyl-compatible** adhesive if formed from vinyl, holding with **lacquer tape** while curing.\\
-To suggest internal structure at the **exhaust outlets**, insert **three small triangular tinplate pieces** and touch in paint for a convincing hollow look.\\
 ----
-==== Landing Gear Installation ====
+<WRAP center small>
+[[en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:1956-03|← 1956 March Issue]] ｜
-Glue the **engine unit** to the completed fuselage. Attach the **oil cooler** bridging the fuselage underside to the engine section (paint **blue-gray**; see Fig. 6).\\
+[[en:authors:omachi-masami:a6m_zero:start|Back to A6M ZERO Index]]
-On thick wings you can **bore sockets** for gear legs, but thin sections give little purchase. A simple, strong method: drive **two dressmaker’s pins** into the wing to at least **1 cm** depth and **solder** the legs to them—works even on very thin wings. Install the **tailwheel** similarly; add **gun barrels** and **pitot**.\\
+</WRAP>
-On **1:30** scale, stretch a **wire antenna** from a small tinplate pad on the fin tip to the mast; it adds realism.\\
-Fit **drop tank(s)** to complete the model—then celebrate with a bottle of ramune!\\
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